Norway, Part III: Trollwegen, Yottunheim, Slidrefjord, Fagernes
- by anna
- 7 September, 2014
The highest straight wall in Europe
On the way
On the way
We were now travelling in Vestland – which was previously part of western Norway, towards the county of Valdres. After lots of hairpin bends, accompanied by magnificent views of fjords and snow-clad mountains, we’ve reached the Trollwegen – the Troll’s Road – another of thoseroads, which have gained popularity amongst tourists. It is the road on which one can find the tallest straight wall, which experienced wall-climbers often ascend. We stopped at the tourist rest centre, built underneath it, to take some pictures. The wall takes your breath away! In the car park, we noticed a memorial plaque with the names of the climbers, who lost their lives, ascending it. There were a number of Australians, Czechs, Americans, etc.
Yottunheim
After some time, the road began to climb. Chris informed us that it is usually closed during winter time, as it is quite narrow and dangerous. On some occasions, it is dug into the cliff, on others, it is banked up with stone walls and climbing all the way! He also warned us that when we reach the top of the mountain, the scenery will change drastically – we were climbing towards the Yottunheim National Park, famous with it unusual scenery. Also, here one can find two of the highest peaks in northern Europe – Galdhøpiggen – 2469 m high and Gliterttinden – 2464! Also moose herds roamed freely here. Chris said that Yottunheim only became popular with tourists from the 18th century – before that it was only known to hunters, fishermen and herdsmen.
Yottunheim National Park
When we reached it – there was no vegetation – just bare green hills, covered with moss, with only an occasional bush here and there. It felt as if we were on the moon! We were desperately hoping to see a moose, but instead we saw a fox, which was so not afraid of people, that it stood in the
ditch by the road with a mouse in its mouth, looking at us for quite some time! There were a number of lakes at the plateau on top, some quite large, with many tourist paths between them, which connected to the 30 mountain huts, where one can take shelter and sleep. On our way, we saw a war beacon – an ancient signaling system, dating from the Middle Ages, which spread the news of attack. Only 20 are preserved today of the total of 700, 7 of which are in Valdres. Apparently, this park is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Norwegian mountains!We began to descent in order to reach the Slidrefjord (it’s a lake, actually, despite the name!). Here is the village in which Chris taught between 1975 and 1977- Vestre Slidre. The river Begna, Chris said, divided the valley into Vestre (Western) and Øystre (Eastern) Slidre.
Slidre Secondary School
We finally arrived in Vestre Slidre and found our hotel. On the next day we visited the centre of the village of Vestre Slidre, where Chris taught and found the school unchanged, only with many outdoor sporting facilities added in the yard. The Community centre, where he participated in the choir and a folk group, was also still there. We went to the farm, where he lived and saw the buildings. Unfortunately the farmer had died some time ago, but his wife, only 2 years ago. Most of the other people Chris could have known have moved from the area.
Chris’s Farmhouse
We were quite taken by the Slirdrefjord – it was narrow and very long. And in its middle, one could see a number of islands, covered in pine trees, which looked like floating round cakes in the water. A number of bridges allowed us to go on the other side of the lake and take the views from there. Chris said that in the winter, when the lake froze, the local people let their children learn to drive on the ice.
Then Chris wanted to take us to a site, to which he climbed regularly, when he lived there – but the weather was drizzly so we decided to drive there. We found ourselves in the site of Gardberg – which according to current presumptions contains a thousand burial mounts. People have raised animal here for 4,500 years, worked in the iron and coal mines before, during and after the Viking area. One of the main discoveries on the site was a stone, which Chris brought us to see – The Einang Stone.
Lomen Church
The Einang stone is the oldest runic stone in north-western Europe, which is still in its original position, placed there in the 300 AD! The runes, used in its inscription are from one of the most ancient runic alphabet. The words are written from right to left. Today it is known, that the runes were used both for writing and for magical purposes. Interestingly enough – a Roman sward had been discovered at the same site, placed there at the same time, which was stamped with the name and mark of the blacksmith, who made it. The assumption was that the people from the Valdres area were trading with the Romans for a long time. Interesting, a?
Lomen Church
The entrance of Lomen Church
Next on our itinerary was the Lomen Stavkirche, dating back from the 1192. It has medieval doors and portals, decorated by wood-carvings of plants and animals. Only the base of the original soapstone font can be seen today. Another item, preserved from the Middle Ages is a chest, placed near the wall in the choir section, which contains faint runic inscriptions. The head of the Virgin Mary on the alter is a copy form the original, from the 1200s, which is in the Fagernes Folk Museum. Very much worth the visit!
On our way to Fagernes, Chris insisted that we should stop to see the Ulnes Church – astone church, not a stave one. Unfortunately, it was locked – we deliberated what to do and Chris went and rang the doorbell of a house opposite the church. He spoke to a man and later, both returned – it turned out that not only the gentleman had a key to the church, but also he had written a book about it!
Ulnes Church
The Ulnes church dates from 1256. This church has many interesting features – it has a medieval baptism font cover, a medieval female figure is displayed in a glass case in the entrance hall – possibly part of a larger figure, consisting of Virgin Mary and Elizabeth. The beautiful stone angels in the church date from the 17/19th century, the last one the work of Ole Fladager – Norway’s best known sculptor of the 18th c. The altarpiece, built in 1850, has an interesting unique feature – by pulling strings, the tree Kings can rotate around Mary and Jesus. An old chest is propped by one of the side walls – several walls have colourful and exquisite mural-paintings, mostly from the 1790-ies. One of those murals depicts Jesus Christ with three of his disciples and St Zacchaeous in the Mulberry tree. Our guide said that this was the only church in Norway, which contains an image of this saint in Norway! When we asked about them, our guide said that there was an interesting story, relating to those and the most unusual alter.
Murals in Ulmes Church – Zacchaeous on the Tree
Two brothers form Ulnes decided to emigrate to America in the 1840s – one was a painter and the other one – a woodcarver. Unfortunately, their ship sailed into a storm in the North Sea and sank. They were in a lifeboat, promising God that if he saved them, they will go back home and embellish their church in gratitude. The boat landed in Netherlands, from where they travelled to Germany and worked as apprentices to master craftsmen for three years. When they returned, one brother produced the altarpiece and the other decorated it and produced the murals on the walls. Having repaid their debt to God, he protected them, when after some time they sailed to America for the second time – this time they arrived safely.
What I found very interesting was that most of the men (disciples) on the altarpiece looked dark-haired, with Asian features – only Christ looked Norwegian and was presented blond.
Slidrefjord
The alter in Ulnes church
Slidrefjord
Our next stop was the town of Fagernes, where we went to see the famous Valdres Folk Museum. One of the best in Norway (nominated Museum of the year for 2013); this museum attracted us with its permanent collection of folk costumes, local crafts, houses and musical instrument, etc. A large collection – of 100 typical houses, demonstrated the architectural plan and building styles in the area in the past. Farming techniques and equipment were displayed, some of which puzzled us to work out what they were used for. The only thing we found moderately disappointed was the museum shop.
Old houses
Chris wanted to take us to the railway station, which he useda lot, when he lived there, but we subsequently discovered that the railway was discontinued – its waiting room we found in the Folk museum!
The town of Fagernes was delightful, we had a good meal and waked by the river, crossed a bridge, which led to a large island and took lovely photographs of the town from there.
Old houses in Fagernes museum
Fagernes folk Museum